Lawn Care

Gage County
1115 West Scott St.
Beatrice NE 68310
Phone: (402) 223-1384
FAX: (402) 223-1370

Lawn & Landscape Care

For more information contact Larry Germer, Extension Educator

Mowing	Fertilizing	Watering Schedule
Herbicides	Thatch Removal - Aerification - Plugging	How to Check Watering Systems

The biggest challenge for us is keeping landscape plants alive and healthy from June through October. This includes trees, shrubs, turfgrasses as well as other ornamental bedding plants. Ideally, these plants need the right amount of water at the right time and without waste.	Water is one of our most valuable natural resources and we should try and use it wisely. Watering too often or applying water faster than the soil can absorb it can be wasteful.
Established trees and shrubs do well in the summer when watered at 14 day intervals. Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 18 inches or more. Probe the soil for depth of moisture absorption at 15 minute intervals to see how long you need to let the sprinkler operate. If the water system is applying water at a rate where runoff is occurring, turn off the sprinkler to allow the water to soak in and then resume watering in about a half hour. By alternating on-off irrigation cycles, you can keep water where it does the most good.	There are many types of watering devises on the market. A few are: soaker hoses, low-output sprinkler heads, , bubblers, and drip or trickle hoses, emitters, drip tubing, etc. The main idea is to match the rate of intake of the soil to the rate of flow from the watering device. Ideally, we want the soil to absorb all the water we apply, so when run off occurs stop irrigation to prevent waste.
	Newly planted trees and shrubs have a very restricted root absorption zone. These plantings should be checked often during the first two years of growth.
Water at 7 to 10 day intervals if the soil moisture checks indicates moisture lacking. Over watering can be as much a problem as under watering because water replaces oxygen in the soil pores. Be sure to check the root ball area because the roots have not reached the new soil area and more water absorption area. Lawns with a high degree of slope present a particular problem. It is very easy for water to run down the slope without penetrating the soil. Water must be applied at very slow rates. Ideally a lawn should be watered just as it begins to wilt. Most grasses take on a dull, dark blue appearance and the blades begin to roll. You may see foot pints left as you walk over the lawn. Early morning is the best time to water. The wind is usually calm and the temperature is low so less water is lost to evaporation. The poorest time to water is in the evening because the blades stay wet longer and the lawn is more susceptible to disease. Aerifier or coring devices will aid in increasing movement of water into the soil. It also aids in the deterioration of the thatch layer and the penetration of fertilizer and insecticides into the root zone.	Plants vary in their expression of drought stress. With some plants the leaves may begin to wilt, drop or roll, others such as grasses, turn a bluish or purple color as they dry up. We can watch the plants and water when we identify the above characteristics. Always check the soil before watering plants to avoid over-watering. When the lawn needs water, 1 to 1-1/2 inches should be applied so that the soil is soaked to a depth of 6 inches or more. If water applications are too light and too frequent turf tends to become weak and shallow rooted. This may also cause a heavy thatch development. The result is a turf that is heat, drought, and disease susceptible because it is stressed. The faster the lawn grows the more water it requires. The slow release fertilizers do not tend to produce high growth rates. Heavy applications of fertilizers high in soluble nitrogen (fast-release) should be avoided or applied at lower rates more frequently.

How to Check Watering Systems

Be sure to check your system at the time of day that you will be watering your landscape. Water pressure in your system will vary with the time of day. The pressure is usually the highest in the early morning and lowest in the late afternoon. Use the following system to check the volume over time and the distribution of the system.

1. For a circular-patterned sprinkler, set out cans in a straight line (figure 1). For a square-patterned sprinkler, set out cans running up and down and side to side (figure 2). Set the last can of each row near the end of the sprinkler's coverage.

2. Run the sprinkler for a period of time such as an hour. Measure the amount of water in each can and compare.

3. If each can has a different amount of water, the sprinkler is not providing an even coverage. When resetting the sprinkler allow for the necessary corrections to provide over-lap watering.

4. Run sprinkler long enough to apply at least 1-inch of water or until runoff occurs. If runoff occurs stop sprinkler. Allow water to soak into soil for 1/2 hour. Then run the sprinkler until runoff. This should allow the water to soak in 6 or more inches and then move to the next station.

Under hot windy conditions turfgrass can use up to .40 inches of water per day (.20 is more common daily use).

* Higher fertility levels require more water usage. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office.

Mulches conserve water. It is anything which covers the ground around the plant. Plastic, paper, wood chips, leaves, grass clippings, and straw, are some of the materials used as mulch. A 3-4 inch layer of mulch greatly reduces the rate of evaporation, reduces the weed growth around landscape plants and protects them from mower damage by providing a buffer zone.

Fertilizing--"Rule of Thumb"

Type of Grass	Approximate Fertilizing Schedule	Comments
Blue Grass Perennial Ryegrass	Apr 20 - June 5--1 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. Sept 1 - Oct 15--1-1/2 to 2 lbs actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. for low maintenance lawns	Do not fertilize in spring if you have a low maintenance lawn. Medium maintenance lawns can be fertilized in fall or spring.

Tall Fescue	May 1 to May 15--1 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft.	Slow release fertilizers are preferred.
	October 15 to November 15--1 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. OROctober 15 to November 15--up to 2 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft.	Slow release fertilizers are preferred. If fertilizing only one time per year, this is the best time.

Zoysia	May 20 to June 1--0.75 to 1 lb per 1,000 sq. ft.	Fertilizers with at least 50 percent slow-release nitrogen are preferred.
	July 1 to July 7--0.75 to 1 lb per 1,000 sq. ft.	Use a complete fertilizer containing nitrogen phosphorus and potassium.
	August 1 to August 7--0.75 to 1 lb per 1,000 sq. ft.

Buffalograss	June 15 to June 30 is best; second application if used, July-August--1-2 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.	Less on low maintenance and natural areas, more in high maintenance areas or on poor soils or in areas with a larger growing season.

Mowing

The "Rule of Thumb" for mowing home lawns is not to remove more than 25-33% of the growth at one mowing. More than 50% top removal will cause existing roots to stop growth.. If you use the following mowing schedule, you will no longer need to bag your clippings.

Maintaining sharp mowing blades will prevent tearing the grass blade tips. This will help prevent brown tips and surfaces where disease can enter the grass blades.

Type of Grass	Approx. mowing Schedule	Mow When Grass Is	Mow Back To	Comments
Bluegrass Perennial Ryegrass	March 20 - April 10	3 to 3 1/2 inches	1 1/2 to 2 inch	Clean lawn of debris. Remove clippings
	April 10 - August 30	3 to 3 1/2 inches	2 1/2 to 3 inches	Mowing frequency should be dictated by growth rate. Mow at least on a weekly basis.
	Sept. 1 - Nov. 15	3 to 3 1/2 inches	3 inches	Lower mowing height should be gradual. Continue mowing on weekly schedule (if needed)

Tall Fescue	March 20 - April 10	3-1/2 to 4"	2 1/2 inches	Clean lawn of debris. Remove clippings
	April 10 - August 30	3-1/2 to 4"	3 inches	Mowing frequency should be dictated by growth rate. Mow at least on a weekly basis.
	Sept. 1 - Nov. 15	3-1/2 to 4"	2 1/2 inches	Lower mowing height should be gradual. Continue mowing on weekly schedule (if needed)

Zoysia	April 20 - May 15		mow lawn as short as possible	Clean lawn of debris. Remove clippings
	May 20 to Sept 20	2 1/2 to 3 inches	2 inches	Mowing frequency should be dictated by growth rate. Mow at least on a weekly basis.
	Sept 20 to first frost	2 1/2 to 3 inches	2 inches	After frost, zoysiagrass will turn light brown and become dormant.

Buffalograss	April 20 - June 15	4 to 5 inches	2 to 4 inches	Mowing frequency should be about every 3 to 4 weeks (or less)
	June 15 - first frost	3 to 4 inches	2 1/2 inches	Mowing frequency should be about every 2 to 3 weeks

Grass clippings left on your lawn will not contribute to thatch, but will return valuable nutrients to the soil. Poor watering practices, too much or the wrong type of fertilizer and mowing too short will contribute more to thatch development than not catching the clippings.

Watering Schedules

Type of Grass	Approximate Schedule	Comments
Bluegrass Perennial Ryegrass	April to November	High Maintenance: Water as needed to prevent wilting and drought. About 1 inch of water is needed per week in spring and fall, and 2 inches per week in summer. Medium & Low Maintenance: Allow grass to go dormant naturally. Apply 1 inch of water if it doesn't rain for a 4-6 week period.
Tall Fescue	April to November	Water to prevent wilting and drought . Tall fescue is drought tolerant and can be grown without irrigation (give 1 inch of water every 4-5 weeks if no rain occurs).
Zoysia	April to November	Zoysiagrass is drought tolerant. Irrigate during extended drought to maintain growth, color, and quality. When irrigation is required, water infrequently but deeply to develop deep, extensive root system.
Buffalograss	July to September	High Maintenance: Deep soaking once a month Low Maintenance: Occasional or no watering Soak soil before winter if soil is dry.

Herbicides

Type of Grass	Approximate schedule	Comments
Bluegrass Perennial Ryegrass	April 20 to May 5	Apply preemergence herbicide for crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail control, if needed, in past problem areas.
	May 1 to May 20	Control dandelion and winter annual broadleaf weeds if they are a problem.
	May 25 to June 20	Apply second preemergent herbicide application (i.e., 6 weeks after initial application) to areas where spotted surge has been a problem or areas with a history of severe crabgrass infections.

Tall Fescue	April 20 to May 5	Apply preemergence herbicide for crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail control, if necessary.
	May 1 to May 20	Control dandelion and other broadleaf weeds if they are a serious problem. Fall is preferred time for control.

Zoysia	April 20 to May 5	Apply preemergence herbicides for control of warm-season annual grasses (i.e., crabgrass).
	May 1 to May 30	Control winter annual broadleaf weeds and dandelions, if they are a problem.
	September 15 to October 31	Apply postemergence herbicides to control dandelion and other broadleaf weeds. This is the preferred time to control dandelion and clover.

Buffalograss	Once established and properly managed, weed pressure in Buffalograss is minimal. If herbicides are required, follow label directions explicitly.	Avoid frequent watering, short mowing, and over fertilizing. Minimize early season watering. Avoid 2,4-D and related products in the spring, when temperature is above 80°F, and on first year turf. Control broadleaf weeds in the fall. Use labeled preemergence weed control products.

Thatch Removal - Aerification - Plugging/Overseeding

Type of Grass			Comments
Bluegrass Perennial Ryegrass	Thatch	April 1 - April 30 and/or September 1 - September 30	Power rake if thatch layer exceeds 0.5 inch. ASpply leafsport fungicide control to common Kentucky bluegrass after power raking.
	Aerifiation	April 1 to April 30 and/or September 1 - October 15	Aerify lawns to minimize compaction, improve rooting and manage thatch.
	Overseeding	April 1 - April 30 and/or September 1 - October 15	Overseed thin Kentucky bluegrass lawns with improved cultivars at .75 to 1.0 pounds seed per 1,000/sq ft.

Tall Fescue	Thatch		Thatch is rarely a problem on tall fescue lawns.
	Aerification	April 1 - April 30 or September 4 - September 30	Tall fescues are very tolerant to wear, but are susceptible to compaction stress. Aerify lawns that are on clay soil or subject to heavy traffic to minimize compacdtion and improve rooting
	Overseeding	April 15 - June 15 and/or August 20 - September 20	Overseed tall fescue lawns that have been thinned by winter injury. Use a blend of improved turf-type tall fescue cultivars, and seed at 4-6 pounds/1,000 sq. ft. When seeding, using a starter-fertilizer applied at 1.0 pounds N/1,000 sq. ft. Spring overseeding can be acompanied with an application of siduron to prevent crabgrass competition.

Zoysia	Thatch	June 1 - July 15	Power rake if thatch layer exceeds 0.5 inch
	Aerification	June 1 - July 15	Aerify lawns growing on clay soils to minimize compaction and improve rooting
	Plugging	June 1 - July 15	Remove plugs from dense areas of lawn to areas of lawn that have thinned by excess traffic, adverse environment, etc. This is the procedure for maintaining desireable turf.

Buffalograss

to Contact our Staff

Paul C Hay, Extension Educator
Jane Esau,, 4-H Program

Dianne Swanson,, Extension Educator
General Address: gage-county@unl.edu

Extension is a Division of the Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln cooperating with the Counties and the United States Department of Agriculture.
UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA-LINCOLN EXTENSION educational programs abide with the nondiscrimination policies of the University of Nebraska and United States Department of Agriculture. We assure reasonable accommodation under the Americans with Disabilities Act.